Drawing Inspiration

As the manic Fashion Weeks advance (New York well under way, London approaching followed inexorably by the others) most of us are starting to accept that it's cold outside, rapidly getting dark earlier, Christmas is yonks away and so the urge to nest kicks in.  Nesting can take many forms, for me it involves pottering around at home, cooking something comforting with the radio on in the background, watching a classic movie in bed with cashmere bed socks and, of course, curling up with a good book and a huge hot chocolate or amaretto depending on my mood.  Now I am well aware that I won't be able to have a nesting day for quite some time but it's good to have something to look forward to and know that you can have a bit of me time, even if you have to squint at it on the horizon.

So while the riotous snaps and flashes of the zoom lenses are starting all over again in NYC, let's enjoy something from a gentler era.  The fashion pack's current favourite coffee-table book 'Fashion Designers' Sketchbooks' (Laurence King, £28) by Hywel Davies features artwork from Yohji Yamamoto, Karl Lagerfeld and Vivienne Westwood, and offers a glimpse into the workings of some of the world's most famous labels, with designers discussing their toiles and fabric choices. Quite the relief from the pap shots and blaaah of the Fashion Weeks.

Wak Kishimoto of Eley Kishimoto
Drawings for print inspiration
"I can’t explain in words what triggers ideas each time. As I still work most of the time in an analogue way, I have many tools and implements that I rely on, from paintbrushes to silk screens. But, if I have to nominate the essentials, it would be the pen and paper nearest to me" 

 

 

Amy Molyneaux from PPQ
Design drawings with fabric indication
"Our design process starts with points of reference, ranging from fabrics, works of art, general objects, people or whatever we feel is relevant to the theme we are working towards. It can even be a statement from a friend that suddenly fits into the thought process in our minds. We have a large space for displaying inspiration, and make it new and fresh each season or for each project we are working on."

Peter Jensen
Design drawings
"I like to draw using a black fine-liner and white copier paper. I always like there to be to be a bit of a story to each collection and I always have this idea of the muse, so I am always thinking about that. 

 

 

Here's what the bods at Lawrence King have to say about the book...

"Fashion Designers' Sketchbooks explores many major names working in the fashion industry today. Photographs, sketches, mood boards, line-ups, toiles, fabric swatches and more all contribute to the creation of ideas for fashion designs, and here they are brought together for the first time to show how the final work is conceived and developed.

Juxtaposing the garments on the catwalk and in look books with the original research material and with finished illustrations allows for a new perspective on the working methods of leading international designers and on the role of different media in the creation of their work, making the book a fascinating resource for both students and designers."

Antonio Marras for Kenzo
Fabric inspiration and silhouette roughs
“I need many things to nourish my inspiration: objects, images, stories and pieces of cloth. Everything that can make my mind travel and work, I continuously need to see new things, new places, to meet new people to listen to. At the same time, I need to be sure I can still count on old, steady things, things with a past and that already belonged to someone else, often things that have outlived time."

 

Chris Brooke from Basso & Brooke 3D toile for basket weave dress
"Depending on the piece I’m working on, it may be more important to begin experimenting on the mannequin, as ideas can come about through simply pinning and stitching shapes together, ideas that wouldn’t necessarily come from drawn work. And, then, the results are photographed so I can decide which parts are working and which aren’t. I then mark the fabric and lie it flat to create the flat pattern.”

Margaret Howell
Mood sketch for rain coat
"I always used to draw my ideas for clothes. The drawings were more about creating a mood or a feeling rather than being a specific technical drawing. My drawings are very loose and are more about a style than an exact representation of a garment."

John Galliano
Research books showing fabric ideas and inspiration
"I start with research and from there I build the muse, the idea, tell a story and develop a character, a look and then a collection."

 Another book of sketches that gets my heart a beating is by the inimitable Manolo Blahnik.  His beautiful sketches are often the sole advertisements for his creations when you flick through the pages of the glossies and his tome features an introductory essay by Nuclear Wintour herself...

I adore all of these shoes, I've no idea when I could wear any of them but I could sit and gaze at them for hours if they were on display in my huge Carrie-like walk-in wardrobe (imaginary at the moment)

Pink AND sparkly AND dangly AND Manolo's...My style is not particularly girly but could make an exception..

I can imagine these on a fairy godmother in a very stylish pantomime!

Finally, a satirical self-portrait of the man himself

 N.B. Whilst we're talking about shoes, a trip to Selfridges Show room is definitely in order, apparently it's bigger than the ground floor of the Tate Modern.  Designed by architect Jamie Forbert and with exclusive designs on sale from a host of labels including Givenchy, Chloe, Stella McCartney, Rodarte and Alejandro Ingelmo, the area will house no less than six different salons and 10 brand boutiques.  It sounds LETHAL.  Opens this month!X

Feeling the LOVE

Goodness gracious, the Gorgeous issue of LOVE has arrived and now I've just got to decide which cover to get. Suggestions? It's a fiver a pop otherwise I'd just splash out and buy them all! In my earlier post about getting all excited over September issues, I totally forgot that the second bi-annual issue of LOVE was due, until I saw this incredibly subtle piece of advertising near the Holland Park roundabout and I nearly swerved into the side of Westfield.

The eight covers have been shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, who truly deserve a post all on their own as they have shot some incredibly iconic images...Naomi naked except for boots and a Catwoman mask, David and Victoria in their Armani scanties, Cameron Diaz covered in truck driver tattoos for V magazine....

For now though feast your eyes on these lovely ladies....the last one in particular, took me by surprise...

Is anyone else getting a kind of 'Betty Draper on acid' vibe with this one?

I'm not entirely sure that 'sweetheart' is the caption I would have used here...

This one freaks me out slightly..

Not usually one of my favourite models as I usually think she looks incredibly smug, but in all fairness, if I polished up like this, I'd be feeling pretty smug too.

If you didn't have the writing scrawled across the front, would you have recognised this young lady?!

Which one should I go for?

How to Accessorise with Grace

As I have departed our rainy shores for ten days in Biarritz, I fully expect to come back to proper Autumn.  The rain had arrived and there was a cool nip in the air but the season hadn't properly 'landed' yet. I can't fib..as much as I am a bit of a sun-worshipper..Autumn and Winter are my favourite seasons. The crunchy leaves, the dark, carb-loading on things like hot buttered toast and pies, the wonderful coats, tights after the horror of having to remain vaguely bronzed and fuzz free for seemingly weeks on end, the list in endless.

However now we've got our classic wardrobes built up (a little bit anyway) and maybe a nice piece of outerwear to throw over everything, you're probably, unless you're more fortunate than me, broke.  The cupboard is bare, my pockets are empty, my bank account is hollow so how to make merry until the next pay cheque? By adding a few relatively, cheapo touches here and there to update your outfit. Also am welcome and open to suggestions!

I've interspersed this post with images styled by the fabulous Grace Coddington who I am a huuuge admirer of.  The very first picture (above) is of Grace photographed by Lord Lichfield in 1964 working a double helping of 'fantasy fur' and the rest, even though they're from past editions, illustrate this season's trends superbly and can inspire us to get creative with our styling.

The fantasy fur tippet
Last winter we had the snood, but the new neck wear has to be faux fur – shaggy pelts (both faux and real..though I'm not sure I'm so up for that unless it's vintage) dominated the catwalks. If you don’t want to purchase a new coat, a demure fur tippet will update last year’s design. Tame wild fur with silks and pretty prints: drape over a green parka and romantic slip dress, or throw over the shoulders of a slouchy knit and maxi skirt to get the Dries Van Noten look.Oh and according to Mr Karl Lagerfield, it's not 'fake' fur, it's fantasy fur.  Really.

I like this one from ASOS.

 The skinny belt
If this is the season of the waist, then now is the belt’s time to shine. Thinner and plainer and with a stricter colour palette (tan, brown or black), a belt should be worn on the slimmest part of the waist, preferably over a grandad cardigan or knitted jumper. The belt should be buckled, with the loose end knotted through. A cheaper alternative is to tie a ribbon in a bow at the waist.I've never been much of one for belts but spotted a gorgeous skinny leopard print one in Urban Outfitters..I may succumb..

The decorative pin
Jewellery takes a back seat as brooches jazz up outfits while also fulfilling a practical purpose. Buttons have been put out of work as brooches and safety pins hold coats and cardigans – and even skirts and dresses – together. This is an easy one to do at home. Just add a giant safety pin to chunky knits or fasten your coat with one.Or get a wee bit more creative and take a trip to V V Rouleaux to find things to add to your giant safety pin!

From US Vogue (July) featuring Euan McGregor & Natalia Vodianova as a not so perfect 50s/60s Mad Men-esque couple

The ladylike bag
Classic should be your mantra when selecting arm candy, and Céline’s boxy leather shoulder bag is the pinnacle of this look. A structured style adds sophistication to even the scruffiest outfit – look to Mad Men’s Betty Draper for inspiration or the shoot below. Opt for muted colours such as brown, khaki, olive, cream and oxblood for an investment purchase, or a bright pop of tangerine for fun. Clean lines, a simple fastening and a practical handle or strap are essential. Carry it in your hand or tuck it under your arm and accessorise with a swingy ponytail.

I rather like this dress too...

The country cap
From the ubiquitous baker boy to the flattering flat cap, hats embrace the English eccentric trend (there were even Avengers-style bowlers on the Hermès catwalk). Best worn with either modish Sixties’ styles such as graphic prints and minis (see Miu Miu), or a duffel coat and rosy cheeks, this outdoors favourite is cool enough to have an urban edge.

The wide headband
Big, dishevelled hair is a hit for autumn – see Giles, Prada and Chanel. Backcombed bed-hair looks brilliant contrasted with a homespun-looking, knitted headband, or wide Alice band – tease hair into a messy bun or beehive before adding. Wear with an elegant knit and pencil skirt for pure sex appeal.

I have to confess that this selection of pictures does not show a wide headband but DO show dishevelled hair perfectly and is also one of my favourite shoots by Grace for US Vogue in December 2009 starring Andrew Garfield and Lily Cole as Hansel and Gretel with Lady Gaga as wicked witch!

Finally a small selection of random Grace pictures to finish this off, even though it's glum outside, beautiful pictures always cheer me up. x

Caped Crusader

This season's look and how to do it..forget Marc Jacobs, Prada et al THIS is how to rock a cape.  I have left it to some tried and tested experts to show y'all how it's done.  I have also purchased my cape of choice..more in a minute..

The man of steel demonstrating how the cape is suitable for air travel and working an excellent colour combination.

 

Bit of a cold day in London? Don't worry! The Dark Knight knows a thing or too about accessorising too, check out the beautifully co-ordinated hat (ok helmet) and bats.

Need a cape to take you from Summer to Winter? Just wear a smaller outfit, then layer up as the days get colder!

Not sure the cape can work as evening wear? PAH! The Phantom shows you how it's done. Quivering wench in a boat optional.

Sometimes it can be hard to find the right look that can take you from City to country.  Take a tip from Robin and stick with earthy, muted tones.

Finally, ideal for the man or lady about town. Add a deerstalker for extra authority.

After wrestling with the array of choice on offer on the high street (and a quick scan at Net-a-Porter..not possible as holiday to budget for and, ahem, the purchase of proper grown up Winter coat) I decided that my budget could not exceed £100 and that as the cape as an item in itself is so, 'on trend', I wanted it to be classic enough so that I could drag it out time and time again BUT didn't wanted it to be in my default black, or indeed navy blue as have the grown-up coat.  Ideally it would be camel and therefore fit into the colour spectrum of my wardrobe (black, navy, grey, cream, white, the odd striped combo and occasional print).  So as usual, when you go shopping with something very specific in mind, you can't bloody find it!

Hours of pounding the pavement and feeling a combination of disheartened (brought on by the lack of selection) and poverty stricken (shouldn't be tempted to browse in shops the budget disagrees with) I eventually collapsed in a heap and treated myself to a skinny Pret hot chocolate before girding my loins to attempt Topshop Oxford Circus.  It was a Saturday, it was full of muppets elbowing each other out of the way over the last dregs of the sale and this was definitely my last port of call before heading home.  NB. I would normally NEVER shop anywhere near Oxford Street on a Saturday as a red mist descends over my eyes and I debate moving to a desert island where I don't have to speak/ see people ever again but this was my only oppurtunity as have a hellish work week and am then running away to snatch the last dregs of Summer on my last holiday this weekend.

There was NOTHING, nothing except one potential cape in navy blue, (due to it's colour, I wasn't allowed to buy it) and, as my friend Adam pointed out, it had  "aggressive piping".

As I was walking out of the store, I managed to snag my cardigan on a rail and I attempted to unhook myself, cursing furiously, I noticed that hidden in the mist of some trousers with PVC patches was my cape. MINE. It fitted the exact brief, camel, subtle military detailing, utterly perfect.  But it was in the wrong size. Instead of having a nervous breakdown, I did the sensible thing..tried it on just to get a feel for it, PERFECTION! Still too big though.  I pegged it to the Information desk and you could see the expression of their faces sinking as a loped towards them with a manic gleam in my eyes.  No they didn't have anymore, no they didn't know when more would be coming in and they normally could attempt to ring other stores but it was a Saturday and they were too busy.   Grrrrrrrr.

I stomped to the tube and pinged back home in a huff. As I walked through the door, I had an utter brainwave, look on the website!!!  As the page loaded my heart was in my mouth, would it be available online at all? It was AND my size was the only one left available.  I guess the Fashion Gods were helping out a bit then (even if they haven't supplied my wish list yet..I live in hope).  It's meant to arrive in the next couple of days so keep your eyes peeled if you see a camel caped crusader pounding the streets of London...it might be me.

Can't wait for it to arrive!x

Have a wonderful Bank Holiday everyone!

"Gosh, I hope this comes in my size.."

Blues

Blues because I'm back from my jollies, because none of the stuff I asked from the Fashion Gods has arrived yet and also blue..navy blue, my new colour du jour.  Of course I haven't given up on black and will also be embracing camel this coming season but I do think navy blue is where it's at.  My mother has been telling me this for years and (annoyingly) I think she has a point. I should have listened, she's one of the most stylish women I know and a great promoter of 'classic' dressing but if we all started listening to our mothers we'd probably have nothing to fight about and life would be dull!   Less harsh than black, more complexion warming than most shades of grey and chic without being too safe, navy blue is my Autumn/ Winter future.

Mummy is also responsible for finding my new Winter coat..from Hobbs no less, a shop I have previously regarded as peculiar mix of middle class mumsy and occasional 'finds' that never EVER fitted me properly (I find they cut for a rather square, tall shape and when you're a munchkin with hips and boobs there's a definate problem).  Classic, with rather pointed structured shoulders, beautiful buttons and superb finish, this coat will see me through for many a year to come.  It's also the perfect weight..warm for when stomping through autumnal London and Yorkshire but not so heavy that you have to peel it off upon descending to the underground before you start heavy breathing and manouvering around the crowds getting your arms stuck as you wiggle out of it.  I love it and I can't wait for the cold snap that I'm sure is just around the corner.  Here's to the start of a beautiful relationship..and thanks mum!x

If you're near a Hobbs, go and have a look at the coat..it's even more lovely in person! I would never have even wandered in if I hadn't been told and there were a few more pieces that caught my eye like this rather whimsical scarf, however funds were at zero then so I removed myself!

Someone I never expected to put on the blog but really loving this navy dress from VB!

Always on the hunt for the perfect t-shirt dress, this would be perfect to take me from Summer to Autumn..if only I actually owned it.

Aaah Alexa, I do sort of want to brush your hair and tell you to stand up straight but am a big fan of this navy sweater dress.

The only previous example of navy I had in my wardrobe..an array of Breton tops, here's to branching out!

P.S. If you want the perfect winter tights, head to the John Lewis schools section NOW! Most of the small sizes have already gone but I've got some smashers in a wine, grey marl and..of course..navy blue.  Am on the hunt for olive green.  Must cheaper than Wolford and excellent quality!

P.P.S. I know I've just got a new Winter coat but I also NEED a cape in my life..I don't think this is excessive as capes are like..totally different...errrrrm...either way I want one. Greedy, greedy, greeeedy.

Dear Fashion Gods...

Dear Fashion Gods,

I am shortly to depart on my Summer holiday and would very much like to get my Autumn/ Winter wardrobe shaping up on my return.  I hope you can appreciate that it's tough saving up for a holiday and for a new wardrobe so I've made the task a bit easier by only allowing myself to request a few key pieces.  I hope that's alright? The only things I will buy are simple long sleeved tees in black/navy/ grey/ white with a variety of necklines for layering. Promise.

I've put a bit of groundwork in and recently purchased some gorgeous high-waisted leather shorts from Topshop that will see me through the Winter months and (to prove their versatility) I wore them with bare legs, brogues and a simple tee on Saturday night and they got admiring glances all around.  I've also made my annual pilgrimage to the John Lewis school uniform section and purchased various colours of wool/ cotton mix tights.

I promise faithfully to re-use my winter coat from last year as it is a timeless, black cocoon number which falls in perfectly with both the ladylike and minimalist trend that approaches. "But there are essentially three coats amongst your requests missy!!", I hear you say.  I can't deny it, but by cunning recessonista thinking, this I justify by saying that you can throw on a coat over pretty much anything and look good to go as oppose to spending lots on skirts, dresses etc.  See my point?

I also solemnly swear to take extra special care of my Vivienne Westwood pirate boots as they add 'POW' to any outfit and must therefore be re-soled and religiously sprayed with waterproof stuff.  I also promise to be more grown-up in general clothes maintenance which will involve getting on first name terms with my dry cleaner, not being so lazy about hand washing (I KNOW a delicates wash in the machine is simply not the same thing) and to invest in a suede brush.

I will not get lured in by sales (see earlier post) and I will SAVE for investment pieces instead of having an accidental high street splurge after a bad day at work. I promise to seal my cashmere in plastic bags to prevent moths attacks and I here fore swear on my Chanel 2.55 that I will be kinder to all my shoes and not wear the same pair, day in, day out, through hail and rain, no matter how much I love them.

Thank you for understanding oh wise sartorial deities, here is my wish list. (Please ask Santa for my postal address).

Love Me xx

P.S.  If I'm only allowed one piece then please can it be the Philip Lim cape or Isabel Marant coat? I'll let you make the call.

Isabel Marant sneakers as seen here at  Garance Dore
a piece by Jade Mellor from her Panthera Leo collection, preferebaly this rather handsome bag clasp.

a Burberry aviator jacket

Yves Saint Laurent leopard-print, cashmere blend scarf 

a pair of Christian Louboutin velvet lace-up flats

Acne Bay print silk blend tee

Boucheron hedgehog ring

Lanvin leather gloves

Miu Miu leopard print dress 

3.1 Philip Lim Merino Wool Cape

Topshop Jamie jeans in worn black

Isabel Marant Bator coat

Long sleeved silk shirt dress from Proenza Schouler

Kurt Geiger Erica shoe